QUICK LINKS TO OTHER HINTS & TIPS BROUGHT TO YOU BY CTM
| Choosing the right tile | Types of ceramic tiles | Planning ahead |
| Surface preparation | How to lay tiles | Bedding methods | Tile tips |
| Tile care & maintenance | Installing a bath | Fitting sanitary ware|

TILE TIPS

CTM Tile Tips aim to achieve a professional tiling finish. If you need to know more, our expert staff are more than ready to help you plan your project.

At CTM we stock a full range of DIY equipment for novice and experienced tilers.

CUTTING TILES CUTTING BY HAND TILE PLIERS AND FILES DRILLING HOLES TILE SAWS AND ELECTRIC CUTTERS GROUTING WALL GROUTING FLOOR GROUTING SEALING JOINTS WATERPROOFING TILE SMART SPECIAL TILES

CUTTING TILES

The rules:

• You aren’t going to get it right the first time.
• Buy more tiles than you need to cater for mistakes.
• Hone your skills by buying some rejects or overs for practicing.

Tiles are hard and brittle and you need special tools to cut them. These tools range from industrial electric cutters and rotary cutting saws and hand cutting saws to hand-held tungsten tipped knives. There is no need to buy expensive equipment as most tool hire outlets can supply these.
You will need a steel ruler because, as with cutting glass, accuracy of measurement is essential.

CUTTING BY HAND

The rule:

• Practice makes perfect.
• The trick to using a tungsten hand held knife is to make confident and strong movements.
• He who hesitates is lost. Care is essential, but confidence is key.
• When you’ve measured up and drawn your straight line, place the cutting edge against the ruler and with strong and constant pressure, score the glazed surface. The score should be uniformly deep and penetrate right through the glaze (2mm for standard tiles). A general rule of thumb is the thicker the tile, the deeper the cut.
• Once you have performed your cut, you will have to make the break. This also needs a quick and confident movement to get the tile to ‘snap’. And here’s where your practise pays dividends. The tile can be snapped against a sharp edge.
• The easiest method is to use two planks a little wider than the tile and about 2cm thick.
• Place one on your work surface, with the tile on top so the score line and plank edge are perfectly aligned.
• Place the second plank on top of the tile so its edge is 2mm short of the score line.
• Clamping the planks together with one hand, tap the exposed tile firmly with the knife or rubber mallet.

TILE PLIERS AND FILES

The rule:

• Rather too little than too much.
• Pliers are used for any irregularly shaped cuts you need to fit around objects such as bathroom pedestals.
• Firstly, use a piece of cardboard or old vinyl tile to cut a template of the shape you need. Make each template the size of the tiles. Carefully cut out the shape you need, place the template on top of the tile and trace the shape onto it.
• Using the pliers, nip off small pieces to within about 2mm from your traced line. Remember the rule above!
• Once you have nipped sufficient to establish the rough shape, use a tile file (various shapes and sizes are available) to smooth the edge down to your traced line.

DRILLING HOLES

The rule:

• Steady and gentle pressure.
• Using a template to establish the correct position on the tile, trace the whole outline onto the tile.
• Place the tile on an old piece of plank. This will allow you to cut right without damaging your work surface or the drill bit.
• Build a dam out of putty around the shape and fill it with liquid paraffin or turps. (This will stop the glaze from chipping.)
• Carefully place the drill in position and applying gentle and consistent pressure with the drill steady, cut until almost through.
• Discard the liquid, clean the tile and finish the hole.
• Use a file to smooth the edge.

TILE SAWS AND ELECTRIC CUTTERS

• Fired clay tiles and very thick tiles are generally better cut with a tile saw.
• Tile saws work in one of two ways. Either a rotating blade (like an angle grinder) cuts through the tile completely, or a saw first scores the surface and then with a built-in clamp, snaps the tile along the score.
• It is best to ask for saw specific help at the hire-shop, or when all else fails, read the instructions.
  (When using an electric cutter, a lot of tile dust is produced. This seems to penetrate everywhere, so you’ll need a dust mask, and if you are cutting indoors, dust covers and masking tape are essential.)

GROUTING

• Different grouting is available for walls, floors and wet or dry areas, so make sure you have the appropriate type for your job.
• Once the tile adhesive has set – ‘time to set’ is indicated on the packaging – mix the grout to the indicated consistency and as with adhesives, a little at a time. Remove any excess adhesive between the tiles with a thin blade or screwdriver.

WALL GROUTING

• Use a flexible rubber spatula to smear on enough to fill the gap between the tiles. Using your finger or a wet sponge, recess the grout to a level just below the tile surface. Work cleanly with a ready supply of water to clean your fingers and sponge and clean off any excess grout on the tile surface before it dries.
• After the grout has dried for a while, gently wipe away any grout left on the tile surfaces with a damp cloth.
• After the grout has set, clean the tiles once more with a wet sponge rinsing regularly.

FLOOR GROUTING

• Mix only enough to use immediately and discard any which hardens. It is usually cement based and hardens rapidly. Read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
• The procedure for smoothing and finishing with regular cleaning is the same as for wall tiles. Allow the recommended time for the grout to set before doing a final clean-up with a damp cloth.
• After 2 to 3 days scrub the floor with a stiff brush using lots of water then rinse and dry with a mop.
• Never apply too much water on your first clean-up and before the grout has set, it will weaken the grout. Give it sufficient time to set – up to 48 hrs for floor tiles, before doing your final clean with water only. Any clouding effect on the tiles after your progressive clean-up can be removed with a damp cloth or soft scouring pad. Do not use abrasives or steel wool.
• Make a gauge stick
• A gauge stick helps to position tiles accurately and quickly. Make one from a suitable length of softwood, 50mm x 12mm x 1.5m. Lay your tiles along the edge of the stick, spacing them with the correct spacers. Mark the position of each tile on the batten.
• When using your gauge stick, hold it firmly against the wall and mark the positions of your tiles on the wall.

SEALING JOINTS

• Seal between tiles and other fittings such as worktops, electrical and bathroom fittings with a silicon sealant of the appropriate colour. If the correct colour is not available, use clear.

WATERPROOFING

• For vanity tops and kitchen work areas, make your grout water resistant by mixing it with Pro Grip Bond It instead of water.

TILE SMART

• Always get about 10% more tiles than the exact area measurement. This will allow for cutting tiles at corners and ends of rows.

SPECIAL TILES

• Remember, there are special tiles to help you get a professional finish: Mitred tiles for edges; tiles with rounded corners; edge-glazed tiles for finishing off edges; nylon strips for easy edges; non-slip tiles for steps; step-edge tiles; listelli for borders and decorative strips; and even tiles with air-holes.